Keeping all the parts of the set well sorted means that you can quickly find the parts you need. This not only allows for a quick build-up, but also a lot of fun when creating a new layout!
I always try to sort the parts back when disassembling a setup and have now developed a fixed sequence for assembly and disassembly:
The modular dungeon board consists of 7 areas (A-G). As these are only connected by doors and stairs, the individual areas can be easily pulled apart and moved separately. Below you will find a small assembly documentation for each area, so that you can print and assemble the entire board piece by piece if you feel like it!
Let’s start with the tunnel area, which leads to the “Great Hall”. This tunnel is entered via the first door. I have placed the placeholder element directly at the door as the starting point. Of course, this could also be the exit of the dungeon.
When I work on a setup, I always proceed as follows:
I place the floors first. Then I place the wall sceneries and the doors to represent the actual room. Finally, all the gaps are filled with Wall Basics and Low Walls: With these two wall sets, you can create visually exciting layouts in combination with the Wall Scenerys.
There is a Winding Stairs in this room. You can use this room as an entrance or exit. You could also think about using the stairs to get to another part of the dungeon.
The large hall consists of 2 areas. Let’s first create the level 1 area. This contains an exciting feature: a new modular pedestal set. This allows you to create raised areas in large rooms where dark rituals can be performed, for example…
Now we can create the raised level 2 area. For this we will need the first construction elements.
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Happy Printing!
After priming, I painted the gaps with Desert Yellow. The light sand should provide a great contrast to the dark tiles.
To paint the dark tiles, I mixed a lot of black with a little white. To give the dark gray more depth, I added purple.
I added a lot more purple to accentuate the dark tiles.
To create a more exciting atmosphere with a mysterious glow, I added a few purple dots as a final highlight.
As I unfortunately didn’t have any bright pink available when I first painted the glowing mushrooms, the brightest highlights will now be added.
After applying a black primer, I applied a first coat of brown paint.
I wasn’t entirely satisfied with the result: So I added some more brown spots with Army Painters Oak Brown and concentrated on the areas where you can see a lot of soil and dirt.
Next, I set about mixing a suitable terracotta clay. As you can see, I needed a few attempts and used various colors. You can use this as a guide or simply use a terracotta color if you have one in stock. Depending on your taste, you can then add some red or brown – whichever you prefer.
Finally, paint the white tiles and the Castle Tiles are ready for the dungeon!
To paint my Lava Tiles, I started with a black primer. I used the Matt Black Spray from Army Painter for this.
As the primer wasn’t opaque enough for me, I primed the rocks again with black. I simply applied the paint generously and didn’t pay attention to painting only the rocks. I painted the cooled lava pieces again straight away.
I used “Lamp Black” from Stylex. This is an inexpensive black acrylic paint.
Without further ado, I used an acrylic paint of which I still had a large tube in stock: “Umbra gebrannt” by Schmincke.
I made sure to leave out the very deep areas, i.e. the shadows, as far as possible.
Now I applied the first coat for the lava: “Dragon Red” from Army Painter. When I repurchased the color later, I noticed that the shade had unfortunately changed somewhat. I therefore recommend that you use a dark, luminous red that you either have enough of in stock or that you can buy later. Of course, this applies to all colors that you want to use again over a large area.
I have now applied a second coat of brown as the color did not cover sufficiently. As you can see, I simply left the black in the shadow areas and concentrated on the highlighted areas.
Again using a rough bristle brush, I applied the first highlighting somewhat more carefully. For this, I lightened the brown with white and Army Painter “Desert Yellow”.
For the next highlighting, I added a little more white and “desert yellow”. As you can see, only the edges and the adjacent areas were accentuated.
I only applied the last, very light accentuation very carefully to the outermost edges. For this, I added some Desert Yellow to my “mixture” and used it almost pure.
For the first accentuation of the lava, I decided on “Lava Orange” from Army Painter. Citadel certainly has even better colors to choose from, such as “Blazing Orange”. For these first Lava Tiles I even worked with 2 different brush sizes to be able to paint some gaps better. I didn’t do this later, as small mistakes in the overall picture no longer affect the painting.
For the final yellow highlight of the lava, I chose “Daemonic Yellow” from Army Painter.
Individually, the individual Lava Tiles don’t look particularly spectacular and the painting looks acceptable at best. In the overall picture of a gaming board, in which the terrain is somewhat in the background anyway and the viewing distance is taken into account, a little effort and such a painting can achieve an impressive overall result in my opinion.
Of course, I am especially happy to receive photos from the community or even alternative paintings!
The as yet unpainted tiles, which create the transition to the surrounding Dungeon Tiles, should be painted in the same style as the other floor elements. I will publish a separate tutorial for this type soon.
If you like these Lava Tiles you can find the corresponding STL files in my first expansion for my Curse of the Citadel Diorama Tiles set:
https://www.myminifactory.com/frontier/diorama-tiles-curse-of-the-citadel-lava-burst-2754
Happy painting!
